When my daughter came to visit for Christmas we had ten precious days together and we fully intended to make the most of them. Rather than staying close to home, we decided that after Christmas would be the perfect time for a few short adventures. Less rushing, fewer crowds and more room to be spontaneous. Our first destination? Italy. Specifically Venice, with plans to continue to Lake Como. At just about a six hour drive from Annecy, it felt close enough to be easy and yet far enough to feel exciting. We wanted to explore Venice at Christmas with a winter road trip through the Alps.
It was also the perfect excuse to take my newly purchased car on its very first road trip. Let me introduce you to my ride; a small, over ten-year old Volkswagen Polo. I have never owned such a tiny car, but here in France, it’s exactly right. It blends in with everything else on the road, maneuvers easily through narrow streets and perhaps most importantly its easy to park.
After a little research I discovered that Venice tends to be less crowded during the Christmas holidays, which sealed the deal. So off we went, me, my daughter, and Lucy the dog who loves car rides especially window surfing when allowed.
Through the Alps and into Italy
The drive itself was part of the experience. Our route took us toward Geneva, Switzerland and then through the Mont Blanc Tunnel. One of the major trans-Alps routes into Italy. The tunnel stretches 11.6 Kilometers ( 6.8 miles) and plays a crucial role in transporting goods across Europe. For us, it marked the official beginning of our holiday adventure.
As we climbed higher into the Alps, the views became increasingly dramatic. Snow covered peaks and steep cliffs. Roads that made you very grateful for the guardrails when looking out of the window and seeing sheer cliffs a foot away.
By late afternoon, we arrived in Venice. It was a beautiful sunny wintry day, what a welcome. It had the kind of light that makes everything look softer and more cinematic, a wonderful introduction to the city.
Arriving the Venetian Way – Venice at Christmas
Cars aren’t possible in Venice. We parked at one of the many well organized parking garages on the outskirts of the city. Here is an easy guide for parking in Venice. Bags in hand and one excited dog in tow, we started walking toward something we had previously only seen in photographs. Then suddenly we saw the all too famous waterways!
Gondolas glided past. Gondoliers navigated the boats effortlessly through the canals. Seeing it all in real life felt surreal and so exciting. Naturally, we decided to arrive at our hotel the way one should when in Venice, by boat.
We didn’t manage to get a gondola, but instead boarded a small motorboat. However, honestly it was just as perfect. Being able to see Venice at Christmas from the water felt like being gently transported into another century. The canals are the heartbeat of the city. The canals were busy with all sorts of boats either bringing passengers or some kind merchandise
Every building looked like it had a story to tell. The ornate wrought iron balconies, weathered stone facades, the perched gargoyles on the roofs, and of course the private docks leading to each establishment. The motor of our boat slowed down so we knew we were close.
A Door Out of a Movie
The boat stopped at a small dock in front of a very large double antique wooden door with an equally large black metal handle. It looked like something straight out of a Harry Potter movie. The driver tied up the boat and leapt out with impressive agility. Watching him, I quietly hoped I could disembark without falling directly into the canal. He knocked loudly. After a few moments the door creaked open and a young man greeted us with a smile and a cheerful “Buongiorno!”
This was the back entrance of the hotel. He helped us out of the boat and led us through a stone hallway that felt like the lower level of a castle. High ceilings, thick stone walls, and softly glowing sconces lighting the way. At the end, we climbed a grand stone staircase with wide, shallow steps. Once through the door at the top of the staircase, it opened up into a beautiful lobby filled with tall windows, heavy drapes, and plush overstuffed furniture.
Our room was cozy and elegant, echoing the same old-world charm. By the time we dropped our bags, the sun was beginning to set. There was no time to waste!
We stepped back outside just as Venice was shifting into the evening. The lanterns along the buildings glowing dimly lighting the streets. The city was beginning to feel more alive. Our plan was to simply wander, explore small shops, find a restaurant that felt right and see where the night led us.
Part 2 – Venice at Christmas
In Part 2, I will share what it was like to explore Venice on foot, discovering the tiny shops, falling in love with Murano glass, and how we found an adorable quintessential little Italian restaurant.
Thanks for being here,
-Soraya
Want to read more about Europe during the holidays? French Christmas Market Magic