I have been in France for a grand total of four weeks now. One of my favorite Saturday rituals has become the Saturday morning market. Luckily for me, it’s right around the corner from where I live. By mid-morning, the streets are alive with a colorful sea of umbrellas stretching as far as the eye can see. As you are walking down the street there is a steady hum of chatter as people wander from stall to stall bags in hand. Here is my experience with expat life in France – weekly markets.
Saturday Morning
If I listen closely at daybreak, I can even hear the trucks rolling in, vendors setting up their stands in the still quiet streets. Officially, they open up at 7:30 a.m. ( though I have never managed to get there that early yet), and the market closes down at 1:30. Throughout the morning people are arriving at a brisk pace. Some carrying reusable bags and others pulling along the quintessential French shopping chariot, those 2 wheeled carriers with an enclosed bag. I bought one myself and they are invaluable. I no longer need to ponder when shopping whether I should be buying several heavy items. For example a bottle of laundry detergent, a container of coconut milk and a head of cauliflower. Pushing items in a shopping cart is one thing, carrying it home is an entirely different kind of shopping work out. The shopping chariot is such a wonderful creation!
Expat Life In France – Weekly Markets
The market itself is a feast of the senses. Every fruit and vegetable you can imagine is beautifully arranged. The bakery stalls draw you in with the amazing aroma of freshly baked baguettes and a beautiful colorful display of pastries. If the pastry window had a title, it could be called “edible masterpieces”. They are both a feast for your eyes and taste buds. The fish stands proudly display their catch on beds of ice. The butcher shops have a large variety of meats and sausages. In addition, there are stalls that sell farm fresh eggs, bottles of fragrant olive oils, as well as seeing incredible sized dates still hung on the vine. As you wander further down the winding streets there are stalls with clothes, curtains, housewares and all sorts of treasures you don’t expect to find. Along the way I’ve picked up a few lessons,
French Market Etiquette:
- Always greet the vendor first with “Bonjour Madame” or “Bonjour Monsieur”. It’s just as important here as when you walk into a shop or restaurant.
- Prices are clearly marked by the kilo. The vendor weighs your items, then gives you the total.
- Most of the vendors prefer that you not touch the food, they will bag it for you. You can certainly specify I would like a large head of lettuce, they’ll lift it up and see if it’s up to your liking. Potatoes are scooped with a big scooper in a bag, olives are ladled, and beans bagged. I learned the hard way with beans. The bags they were using “appeared” small so I asked for a bag. I could have set up my own stand with a green bean casserole special. Something that has helped me so much is that along with the price on the little chalkboard is the name of the item. That has been most useful for me in knowing the name of items.
- Bring cash and a bag. Most vendors don’t take cards, it’s a perfect way to get rid of your coins on a weekly basis.
- Timing is everything, mid-morning is usually one of the busiest times with long lines at popular stalls. While late morning may mean fewer choices but sometimes better deals. I’ve also noticed that at the beginning of the market can be slightly more expensive than those deeper in.
A Special Routine – Expat Life in France – Weekly Markets
Each week I am discovering my favorite vendors even though their locations shift from week to week. That’s part of the fun, recognizing familiar faces in new spots and slowly learning where I like to buy my greens, or that perfect crusty baguette.
Shopping at the market has become a ritual of connection, rhythm and joy as well as filling my fridge for another week.
Thanks for being here,
-Soraya
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